A winter hideaway in a National Trust cottage at Polesden Lacey, Surrey. A wonderful National Trust property to rent.
As the Christmas lights flickered and the last of the mince pies had been finished off, we packed up a couple of bags and headed to the beautiful Surrey hills for a winter retreat in a National Trust cottage at Polesden Lacey.
👩💻 About the author – Nichola is a family travel expert and has written for The Guardian, The Telegraph, Lonely Planet Magazine and Wanderlust, amongst many others. She’s spent over a decade travelling the world with her children, finding the best places for you to explore too.
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Arriving in your National Trust property to rent
We arrived at night. The post-Boxing Day traffic being heavier than we anticipated. It took a little longer than expected to navigate the narrow country lanes leading up to Polesden Lacey, a few miles outside of Dorking, in the dark.
Once we pulled up though, the lights inside the cottage glowed, beckoning us inside and into its warmth. With a basket heaving with logs we immediately lit the fire and felt at home at once.
There is something so comforting about arriving at a countryside cottage in winter. The contrast between the crisp Surrey air outside and the instant warmth of a wood-burning fire inside. It immediately set the tone for a peaceful family break in the heart of the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
About Polesden Lacey
Polesden Lacey was the Edwardian country pad of Margaret Greville. The daughter of a brewery millionaire and someone who by all accounts loved a good party.
Margaret Greville inherited the estate in 1906 and transformed it into one of the most glamorous country house party venues of the Edwardian era. Her guest lists regularly included politicians, aristocracy and members of the royal family. In fact, it was chosen as the honeymoon location for the Duke and Duchess of York in 1923,ater King George VI and the Queen Mother, because it was considered suitably grand yet private.
Margaret was great friends with Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother. And she enjoyed hosting gatherings which included maharajas and royalty from across the world.
In 1942, Margaret Greville bequeathed Polesden Lacey to the National Trust, ensuring the estate would be preserved for the nation. Today it remains one of Surrey’s most elegant historic houses and one of the best National Trust properties to visit near London. It’s also a great National Trust property to rent in the form of the gardener’s cottage.
The Gardener’s Cottage, Polesden Lacey, Surrey – a wonderful National Trust property to rent
How much the head gardener in the cottage overlooking Polesden, knew about the wild parties in the main house isn’t known.
As we nestled inside his 19th century house we could only imagine the stories that this beautiful cottage could tell.
Our first night was all about settling in and we took it in turns to have long bubbly soaks in the roll-top bath. The perfect way to unwind after a long drive.
The cottage was well set up for families with two bedrooms on the ground floor, along with two bathrooms and another bedroom and bathroom on the first floor.
There was a large lounge with open fire (and an endless supply of wood outside), a tv plus a huge chest filled with board games.
Collecting wood for the fire became part of our daily rhythm. It was such a lovely activity to keep the house warm and cosy.
We loved all the books placed around to read up on Polesden Lacey and other publications from the National Trust library. And we thought the vases of fresh flowers everywhere were a lovely touch.
The cottage kitchen was spacious and well-equipped, making it ideal for families wanting a self-catering break in Surrey. There was plenty of space for cooking together, and the large dining table quickly became the heart of our stay.
Our visit to a winter hideaway in a National Trust cottage at Polesden Lacey, Surrey
As we visited in between Christmas and New Year the whole cottage was all looking suitably festive too. We appreciated the lovely knit blankets on the backs of every chair.
When morning came we cooked up a big breakfast before heading out on a walk of the grounds in the beautiful winter sunshine.
Polesden Lacey is surrounded by 1400 acres of land. There are some beautiful and well marked walks into the ancient woodland surrounding the property.
The estate sits high on the North Downs, offering sweeping panoramic views across the Surrey countryside. On a clear day, you can see for miles, making it one of the most scenic National Trust walks in Surrey. The winter light gave everything a beautiful glow, and the frosty grass crunched underfoot as we wandered through woodland trails and open parkland.
It was wonderful to get out and blow away the cobwebs of a few Christmas days spent largely indoors.
Visiting Dorking
We then took a quick trip into Dorking nearby. Packed full of antique shops and lovely little independent traders. And we bought all the bits to cook up a huge veggie roast.
As Christmas had only just passed we bought half price crackers and decided to recreate our Christmas meal.
It was lovely to all sit around the big table in the kitchen, heaving under bowlfuls of vegetables and a delicious nut roast. Perfect family time, a chance to all be together without the distractions of home. To chat and relax and enjoy each other’s company.
We spent the next few days exploring the grounds. We loved looking around Polesden Lacey which was all decked out for a 1930’s Christmas.
Unfortunately only the main hall and dining room were open to the public. So we will have to return as I loved the feel of the house and want to explore it some more.
It was interesting to see it all set up for the guests in 1935 though, complete with a menu from the day.
The interiors reflect the glamour of early 20th-century high society, with opulent décor, intricate plasterwork and carefully curated furnishings. Even a partial visit gives you a real sense of the estate’s role in British social history.
We shopped in the gorgeous little National Trust shop and little ‘potting shed’ plant shop. And loved running through the gardens surrounding the house.
The formal gardens at Polesden are particularly beautiful, even in winter. Structured terraces, long sweeping lawns and carefully clipped hedges frame the countryside beyond. In warmer months they are known for their roses and colourful borders, but there is something equally magical about them in the quiet of winter.
Our stay – renting a National Trust property – a winter hideaway at Polesden Lacey, Surrey
But it was the Garden Cottage that called us back time and time again. For reading by the fire, endless games of Cluedo and hot chocolates.
We absolutely loved the space the cottage offered us. It felt really special to be right in the grounds of somewhere so historic.
We could see people at the end of our little path, looking back up at the cottage, little signs telling them it wasn’t accessible to the public. And we felt really lucky to be here and to know we could just open the front door and walk in to the rose or vegetable garden of the main house and explore the grounds.
My favourite part of the day was dusk, which came early in the winter day, when the last few visitors would make their way home. And in the falling light, it would gradually just be us and Polesden Lacey once again. We would light the fire, lock the door and spend more time, so happily as a family.
I’m going to remember this stay for the longest time.
Staying in a National Trust cottage at Polesden Lacey offers something quite rare – the chance to experience a historic estate after the gates have closed. It feels peaceful, privileged and wonderfully removed from everyday life. For families looking for a winter break in Surrey, a cosy countryside escape near London, or a unique stay within a historic National Trust property, this really is a special choice.
You can watch our video of our time here –
Find out more about National Trust cottages here.
More features you might be interested in
Why not read about our stay at the characterful Oxfordshire property and stay at The Old Parsonage, Iffley. We also have a complete UK with kids guide.
I did exactly what those other visitors did on our trip to Polesden Lacey last year – peered up at the house, realised it was one that you could stay in, decided it sounded fabulous and then trotted off to keep exploring. How fantastic to stay there – and to get a glimpse inside.
Love this post so much. Gorgeous pictures. I saw the site in Cragside and always wanted to stay, you have added another one to the list. We haven’t really explored this end of the world but will definitely do so soon!
I was there last week and we stood outside the wonderful cottage and said to ourselves we’d love to stay inside! It sounds so wonderful. I think we’d really love it there, too! You lucky things!
This looks like a wonderful place to stay. I really enjoyed your post and the video – and I’m especially liking your firelighting technique!
I absolutely love the sound of this – right up our street. Gorgeous, a bit of history, a roaring fire – couldn’t be better! Plus very family friendly.
Don’t think I’ve stayed in a National Trust property before. Sounds like I should!