A family weekend in Inverness, Scotland: There was a touch of an icy chill in the air. The wind caught my hair, blowing it messily across my face, the rain started to fall. It could have felt like any other Scottish afternoon but the fact we were standing on the fields of Culloden, the site of the terrible, bloody battle where 1600 men were cut down and died in around an hour made the atmosphere feel much more sombre.
*AD / This post contains affiliate links and I may also have been compensated or gifted in this post. To read more please see my Disclosure Policy.
Table of Contents
Visiting Culloden
We had come to Culloden on our family weekend in Inverness, Scotland. I wasn’t sure what to expect of this first stop off.
The battle occurred in 1746 so I knew there wouldn’t be much remaining. What I hadn’t considered was the way the land and all the elements came together here to give it an eery sense of knowing.
The children felt it too, walking next to the oranged reeds which were bending tirelessly in the wind, it was as if they could sense the history that occurred here.
“Let’s feel the ground”, I told my seven year old, “imagine what went on at this very spot”.
We bent down together, fingers gingerly reaching out to touch the damp, cold earth.
“I can feel it”, he told me breathlessly, and I could too.
Culloden was the last battle in the Jacobite Rising and one of the most violent battles in British history. The Jacobites, fighting to restore the Stuart King to the British throne met to fight government troops here, just outside of Inverness.
It was the last pitched battle on British soil and a disaster for the Jacobites.
Visitor’s Centre
There isn’t just a field remaining here though, there’s a whole visitor’s centre with artifacts and accounts and best of all staff who will lead you all in your own Highland Charge.
We loved shouting and jeering and imagining the roar of thousands of men ringing out across the land.
It was most telling when our re-enactor leader shouted, “are you ready to die for your king?” and everyone shouted back, defiantly, “No”. How times have changed.
We sat in the cafe here, overlooking the land, munching on hot food and eyeing up the tea cakes and could only imagine at the horror that Culloden witnessed over 250 years ago.
There’s most definitely something in the air here.
Inverness – A family weekend in Inverness, Scotland
Our fill of somewhat grisly history we drove in to Inverness. The landscape changing from the bleakness of Culloden to dense forests with autumn colours starting to burn through, to suddenly a wonderful landscape of fields leading to lochs and waterways beyond.
This really is a beautiful area of Scotland.
We headed in to the city, to our hotel, The Columba. Centrally located on the banks of the River Ness and oozing history and heritage.
We braved the wind and headed into the city, to the Museum and Art Gallery. This was packed full of the history of this interesting area and ways for all the family to get involved.
We also climbed the tower at Inverness Castle. The Highland wind swirling as we peered out across the landscape.
Inverness is a beautiful city. Contained and compact but with heart and soul.
We wandered amongst the shops selling kilts and tartan and fluffy Loch Ness monsters and wished we had longer to linger here.
Dinner at Prime
Dinner was next door to our hotel, in Prime which is one of those restaurants you come in to and immediately feel at home.
The rain poured down outside, thick, heavy drops but inside we were warmed by the flickering candlelight and beautiful food.
We tucked in to halloumi tandoori skewers, charred mini aubergines and seabass.
There was time for desserts and I loved the opportunity to indulge in a frothy espresso martini while we enjoyed a traditional Scottish clootie dumpling. And the children ate bowl fulls of ice cream.
Visiting Loch Ness
After a good night’s sleep we were up early for a trip out to Loch Ness. The real star of the show.
Loch Ness is one of those bucket list places, somewhere I’ve wanted to visit for the longest time. I love the romance of it, the intrigue, the stories, the mystery.
The kids were spellbound too, “if we spot the Loch Ness monster will we be millionaires” asked my seven year old, eyes as big as saucers.
We met with our boat, the Rebellion, part of Loch Ness by Jacobite cruises and set out across the water.
The lake’s waters were swirling beneath us. A unique colour, almost black but not so dense, tar-like but not so thick.
It is rainwater which picks up the peat as it travels down the nearby mountains giving it its characteristic hue. It was mesmerising.
Urquhart Castle
Our cruise with Loch Ness by Jacobite was four hours long. An hour with a guide telling us all about the area and then we were at the first and only stop of Urquhart Castle which loomed suddenly in front of us.
Urquhart has a bloody history, as anywhere in this region worth its salt does.
It has over a thousand years of history – the site of miracles being witnessed and violent raids.
We clambered across its ruins, peered down wells, climbed tiny staircases and looked through windows open to the elements and imagined the many stories this wonderful castle had to tell.
When the rain started to fall we dashed to the visitor’s centre for hot chocolates and fluffy muffins and looked out across the Loch.
This is such a beautiful place, despite its history there’s a peace about it now. I started to imagine myself at a retreat here, somewhere to read and write and contemplate.
Our boat returned for us and we skipped down to the dock for the trip back to Dochgarroch Lock.
Loch Ness does not disappoint and there’s something truly beguiling about it.
I stood by myself at the back of the boat, the sun briefly appearing, warming my face and I felt total relaxation wave over me. I loved it here.
Clachnaharry Inn for lunch
By the time we docked there was a chance for some gift shop purchases before heading off for a classic Scottish Sunday lunch at the Clachnaharry Inn.
They had a veggie haggis on the menu and allowed us to pair it with all the roast trimmings. We sat with all the local families, listening to the beautiful Scottish accent tell tales of days come and gone and family dramas.
It was the perfect lunchtime treat.
The Ness Islands – A family weekend in Inverness, Scotland
Before our flight home we had chance for one last excursion and headed to the Ness Islands, in the centre of the River Ness and accessible from the city.
Victorian bridges link the mainland to these picturesque islands and they were lovely to wander through. So far from the hustle and bustle of the city.
The River Ness lapped the sides around us and the autumn leaves fell like confetti.
Our family weekend in Inverness was filled with history and stories, of fame and fortune and battles lost and won.
It was about the past but also the present, with the wonderful welcome, great food and breath of fresh air we got from our visit.
We can’t wait to return and explore some more.
A family trip to Shetland, Scotland
Things to do in Inverness with kids
