Indonesia has long been on our travel wish list. It’s somewhere we’ve wanted to visit for the longest time. So planning our Indonesia family holiday was something we relished. On this trip we focussed on Java with a final hurrah in Bali before heading home via Singapore. It was a trip filled with so much fun and adventure. Taking the trains down through Java and visiting the cities and towns of Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Malang and Banyuwangi. Taking the ferry across to Bali and visiting Ubud and Sanur (before finishing off with a few days in Singapore). We loved all the spicy, fragrant food; spotting wildlife everywhere we went, enjoying the wonderful hospitality and friendly locals who just wanted to talk; and just loving so many aspects of this beautiful country. It might be our best family holiday yet. Scroll to the bottom for a concise itinerary or read through for everything we did on our Indonesian family holiday.
👩💻 About the author – Nichola is a family travel expert and has written for The Guardian, The Telegraph, Lonely Planet Magazine and Wanderlust, amongst many others. She’s spent over a decade travelling the world with her children, finding the best places for you to explore too.
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Table of Contents
Arrival into Jakarta
We started our Indonesian family holiday by flying in to Jakarta Airport which was surprisingly modern and fun.
On this trip we travelled around the whole of Indonesia by Grab which was a really easy way to travel, particularly as a family of five. We soon were out of the airport and into the chaos of Jakarta.
As we drove through the streets to our hotel our eyes were wide with all the sights. We arrived late and watched the bustling and busy city unfold before us as the sun set. We were so happy to be back in Asia and loved these initial glimpses. Stalls piled high with snacks and steaming dishes, little workshops busy into the evening, streets tangled with electricity wires hanging overhead.
It was hard to get a feel for the city and we were tired from all the travelling so we ordered some good veggie food to the room, plates of spicy tofu and crispy wontons, and settled in for the night.
Our hotel was in the Mangga Dua area and was tall with views across the city. We watched as homes lit up across the landscape, countless lives being lived quietly without fanfare in a city so large it stretched as far as we could see. Trains snaked through the sprawling scene, their lights glowing through the darkness, cars rushed along the extensive road system, skyscrapers stretched into the sky in the distance with their own light display projected on to them. We couldn’t wait to explore.
Day 2 – Jakarta – the old town
A day to fall in love. Jakarta really wowed us today….despite the odds. I’d read so many accounts of people not liking this Indonesian capital. A common theme seemed to be that it was full of traffic and uninspiring. So we all braced ourselves for a city just to endure before moving on to the rest of Java. But from the very first moment, Jakarta really worked for us. We found it intriguing, fun, happy and somewhere we wished we had longer to linger.
Jakarta’s Old town – our Indonesia family holiday
We headed out early to explore Kota Tua, the Old Town, before the crowds picked up. Winding our way through the characterful streets to the very heart of the city and Fatahillah Square (Taman Fatahillah).
This area was where the Dutch colonists set up home, calling it Oud Batavia. It was originally a walled city within a city and the centre of the 17th century spice trade. And the buildings exude this charm. It felt grand and picturesque.
We loved all the street sellers with spicy snacks laden high on their carts and vendors renting out colourful bicycles for visitors to pedal around the large square.
We made our way into the Wayang Puppet Museum, which was packed full of a whole combination of fun, grotesque, expressive puppets. It was wonderful to learn about the history of this important art form in Indonesia. We learnt the importance of puppetry in telling Indonesia’s stories and bringing alive the tales of folklore.
Find a half-day tour of the Old Town, including entrance to the Puppet Museum here.
Jakarta’s Chinatown
Next we wound our way to Chinatown. Here alleys were packed full of stalls heaving with colourful fruits, home essentials and street foods bubbling in scalding oils. People worked their wares while cats lazily stretched on every available spot, even squashing themselves into trays of garlic bulbs, waiting to be sold. The constant of the day was the smiles and friendly faces greeting us. We felt so welcomed into these little industrious worlds.
There were lots of cafes dotted about for air-conditioned breaks. We stopped for multiple fruity drinks, coffees, sweet buns and snacks.
Back at Fatahillah Square the crowds had started surging and the Indonesian tourists were out and about – families enjoying picnics, children flying big toy aeroplanes, bands playing music and couples cycling on the colourful bikes you could hire everywhere. It was a party filled atmosphere but of the most wholesome kind.
Out for dinner at House of Tugu, Jakarta
After a break at the hotel for a few hours we headed out for dinner at House of Tugu where we shared plates of Indonesian tofu and tempeh, sweetcorn curry and aubergine with spicy red peppers. It was a gorgeous meal, full of flavour and colour, in the most wonderful of settings. The space was filled with artifacts gathered from across Asia. It was such a beautiful family meal and so nice to relax together and enjoy it.
Jakarta we came and gave you so little of our time and wish we had longer to linger. But we’ll be back and ready to explore your colourful streets once again at some point in the future. Thank you for such a warm greeting into Indonesia. It really was the perfect start.
Read our best things to do in Jakarta with kids here.
Day 3 – Train from Jakarta to Yogyakrta
Our time to leave Jakarta came so fast. And it was an early morning taxi to Jakarta’s Gambir Station to catch the train to Yogyakarta.
We thought Gambir Station was fantastic. There were plenty of places to pick up food and lots of international options too, including Starbucks, McDonalds and Krispy Kreme. The children got fruity bubble teas and some chocolate-filled waffles, which was the perfect breakfast.
We opted for Executive class on the train which was well worth the money. A spacious air conditioned carriage with big reclining seats. There were sockets to connect (with any international plug) and even USB sockets between the chairs. At the end of the carriage were clean, airplane-style loos (both men and women’s separated). In the middle of the train was a refreshments carriage with plenty of snacks including hot noodles. There was wifi on the train too.
We enjoyed the six hour journey, watching the busy Indonesian capital give way to countryside scenes. It was such a glimpse into people’s lives. Seeing two young girls stood together outside their little house, waving, jumping up and down and laughing; the multiple rice pickers; kite flyers; the little girl with arms outstretched as we hurtled past; fishermen; women sweeping; lines of laundry flapping in the breeze; children running; adults resting. There was so much to see. The big glass train windows that looked out across the landscape provided the perfect entertainment.
Read our full review of our journey on the Jakarta to Yogyakarta train
Tirtodipuran Hotel, Yogyakarta
We caught a Grab to our hotel from the train station. Luckily there seem to be Grab kiosks at most of the train stations with staff there helping to organise the transport. And we were soon whisked off to our hotel, the Tirtodipuran which is a heritage hotel in the bohemian area of Yogyakarta. Surrounded by art shops and craft emporiums and lots of amazing restaurants and cafes.
This is a great hotel to base yourself in. Packed full of character and with a pool and huge family rooms it’s a great place to stay.
Read our full review of our stay at Tirtodipuran Hotel, Yogyakarta here.
Dinner at the Black Cat Cafe, Yogyakarta
On this first evening in Yogyakarta we headed out along the street, diving into the odd craft shop along the way, and found ourselves at the vegan Black Forest Cafe. We had a wonderful feast of Indonesian food with great veggie burgers for the children. We loved it here.
Yogyakarta – our family holiday to Indonesia
We had a whole day in Yogyakarta to soak up the atmosphere and we started out by heading to the silver shops.
The silver shops of Yogyakarta – our Indonesia family holiday
Yogyakarta is well known for its silver and the historic Kotagede district is particularly full of the workshops and shops of the designers. Here a tradition which dates back to the 16th century is still going strong.
We did find the silver shops somewhat of a disappointment, but there were some interesting enough workshops. And it was amazing to see the intricate work that went into creating beautiful silver products. But the shops all seemed overpriced and just geared up for tourists. Not many of whom seemed to be visiting. So the big empty showrooms felt particularly bare.
We didn’t linger for long as it didn’t feel that this was the real heart of Yogyakarta.
Check out our top souvenirs from Indonesia
Kotagede, visiting Yogyakarta’s Old Town
Kotagede is the historic, old town of Yogyakarta and its narrow lanes are a joy to wander. Packed full of crumbling colonial buildings, beautiful character and local life spilling onto the streets. We really enjoyed just soaking up the atmosphere here while we wandered.
Makam Panembahan Senopati
We wound our way to Makam Panembahan Senopati which offers a fascinating glimpse into Yogyakarta’s royal and spiritual heritage. This sacred site (still in Kotagede) is the resting place of Panembahan Senopati, the founder of the Mataram Kingdom in the late 16th century. This is the dynasty from which Yogyakarta’s sultans descend and the complex is one of the most revered in Java.
We didn’t go into the main mosque, as entry requires wearing traditional Javanese attire, but were more than happy exploring the peaceful grounds instead. The arched gateways are wonderfully intricate, carved with age-worn details that tell their own stories of devotion and craftsmanship. In the centre lies the tomb of Senopati himself, shaded by old trees.
Lunch in Kotagede, Yogyakarta
By now we were hot and hungry. The area’s market was closing up, stalls being shuttered and we initially struggled to find somewhere to stop. Finally we stumbled into a lovely cafe which was the perfect find. It had a gift shop and lots of space to relax and a great, vegetarian-friendly menu.
We ordered some tempeh and spicy tofu all washed down with interesting tasting strawberry lemonade. It was so nice to just stop a while.
Visiting Suryatmajan, Yogyakarta – family holiday to Indonesia
Then we took a taxi to the Suryatmajan area of the city. This was part of Yogyakarta that we loved. It was full of the weekend happiness of families relaxing together. The street sellers were out in full force from skewers of meat cooking over charcoal, to those selling colourful balloons to the local children and small wooden toys. It felt like a party atmosphere but not in the boisterous sense, more a happy hum of people out promenading and enjoying their time together.
We stopped for drinks and snacks and soaked up the whole vibe of this area. The children shopped for souvenirs – colourful masks to hang on their wall at home and patterned bangles to take home to friends. We really felt this was the happy heart of Yogyakarta and we would have liked longer, to return here and enjoy it some more.
Nanamia Pizzeria, Yogyakarta
In the evening we headed near to our hotel and to Nanamia Pizzeria which was an amazing space. Again packed full of families and fantastic wood fired pizzas. We were really impressed. Eating outside, families around us chatting, we talked about our day and everything we’d done and how lovely Yogyakarta was.
And then it was back to our hotel to rest for the evening.
We really loved the area we were staying in. It had a bohemian, very cool vibe to it. There were westerners here but we felt it wasn’t overly touristy. Full of trendy cafes and good restaurants. It really is a great Yogyakarta base.
Borobudur – Day 5 – our Indonesian family holiday
We started the day with a lovely breakfast at Literica cafe. Plates full of waffles and lychee juices and fantastic strong coffee. Before we made our way to visit one of the much anticipated highlights of Indonesia. Borobudur.
I was surprised by how expensive Borobudur is. All the tours for a family of five were very pricy and individual tickets on the door had sold out by the time we knew the day we wanted to visit. In the end we booked a driver for around £35 and headed out there, knowing we would probably only be able to get ground tickets.
It’s about two hours to drive from where we were staying in Yogyakarta to Borobudur. But like everywhere in Indonesia there’s so much to see. From all of the street performers entertaining drivers at traffic lights, to communities, shops, cafes that you pass on the way.
This colossal 9th-century Buddhist temple rises majestically from the lush Kedu Plain, with misty volcanoes forming a breathtaking backdrop. Built from over two million stone blocks, Borobudur is the largest Buddhist monument in the world, a masterpiece of ancient engineering and devotion.
Borobudur is actually very well organised with tickets to buy on each hourly slot. So we were so happy that we managed to buy some at the gate. These were still expensive but we were in and didn’t want to miss it. For the price (about £20 per person) you also get some woven flip flops which you must wear into the site and a guide to take you around. This was a really atmospheric trip and such a highlight of our Indonesia family holiday.
The temple’s design represents the Buddhist path to enlightenment, with visitors ascending through nine stacked platforms, six square and three circular, adorned with more than 2,600 relief panels and 500 Buddha statues. Each step upwards feels symbolic, as intricate carvings tell stories from Buddhist teachings and Javanese life over a thousand years ago.
At the top, the iconic circular terraces dotted with bell-shaped stupas create a serene and almost otherworldly atmosphere.
On the day we visited, storms threatened, and this just added to the evocative feel of the whole site. It was wonderful to wind our way to the top, peering in at Buddhas, carved by invisible hands hundreds of years ago and smiling at the carvings warning of gossiping with your neighbour or drinking alcohol.
It was busy when we visited but because numbers are limited each hour it didn’t feel too much. The children loved being approached by local school children who were visiting the site. They shrieked at them, waving over and then shyly approached in small groups to practice their English and chat.
It was a wonderful day and a definite not to miss place if you’re visiting Java.
Read our complete guide to Borobudur here (including links to get tickets)
Malioboro Express to Malang – Day 6
Sadly, all too soon, it was time to leave Yogyakarta and we headed to the train station to take the train to Malang.
The train station here was very well set up and I loved the big 1920s style cafe where we picked up cups of steaming coffee and and the best doughnuts any of us thought we’d ever had.
The train wasn’t as good as the initial one from Jakarta. There were no big picture glass windows, no wifi, no well-stocked snack cart. But it was good to get us all reading our books and watching snapshots of life passing us by again. This journey involved lots of stopping at little stations and more urban scenery which is always wonderful to gaze out onto. Lines of men fishing around a small man-made pond, children running down the small alleyway waving frantically at the train, more kite flyers in the huge green rice fields, Mount Wilis towering to the side of us and always present, shrouded in clouds at its summit.
By the time we rolled in to Malang we were ready to disembark.
Our hotel was slightly out of the main hub of the city and we arrived tired and hungry from a day of travel. None of us could face trekking back into the heart of Malang to track down vegetarian food so we somewhat reluctantly headed to the uninspiring-looking plaza opposite. There wasn’t much here – a scattering of shops, some strange musical animals a couple of children were travelling emotionless on around the shopping centre concourse, a supermarket and a handful of places to get food. One, the House of Wok said they could make some of the menu vegetarian so that’s where we stopped. And we were all so pleased we did. The food was delicious. Plates piled high full of noodles and vegetables, some crispy salty and spicy tofu and huge platefuls of oddly coloured pink rice that was so good we had to order another.
Malang – colourful and coming to life
Malang is a big bustling city which can feel sprawling. But there are pockets of characterful communities tucked away in its corners which are well worth exploring.
Situated in East Java, Malang is one of Indonesia’s most charming and underrated cities. There’s colonial elegance, cool mountain air, and vibrant local life. Surrounded by rolling hills and tea plantations, it offers a refreshing change from the heat and bustle of larger cities. Its leafy boulevards and art deco buildings give Malang a relaxed, old-world feel.
The city is also a fantastic base for exploring the region. From here, you can set out on early-morning journeys to Mount Bromo, one of Java’s most iconic volcanoes, or take day trips to nearby waterfalls and coffee plantations. We decided to have more of a low-key visit to Malang to take in as much of the city as we could.
Handicrafts in Malang
We started with some of the city’s handicraft shops which are indicative of change in Indonesia. A grassroots emphasis on design and quirky homewares. We loved exploring them and they often had places to pick up artisan snacks too from broccoli crisps to fresh juices.
We picked up handmade incense bowls, beautiful smelling perfume and fun crocheted creatures. Little souvenirs of our time in this picturesque part of Indonesia.
Find all our top souvenirs to buy in Indonesia here
Jodipan – our Indonesia family holiday
Then we made our way to Jodipan, known as the “Rainbow Village,” an amazing colourful district of Malang. A few years ago this was derelict and tumbling apart. Now it is absolutely zinging with life. For a small fee you can wander through the villages where the residents go about day life amidst an absolute explosion of colour.
Once, Jodipan was one of Malang’s poorest and most neglected riverside neighbourhoods, perched precariously along the banks of the Brantas River. The houses were tightly packed, crumbling, and in danger of being demolished due to pollution and unsafe living conditions.
The change began in 2016, when a group of students from Muhammadiyah University of Malang came up with a social project to improve the area’s image. They collaborated with a local paint company, Indana Paint, which donated hundreds of litres of brightly coloured paint. The students and residents worked together, coating more than a hundred homes in vivid blues, pinks, yellows, and greens. What started as a small beautification project quickly became a symbol of community pride and creativity.
Jodipan’s metamorphosis caught national attention and soon drew tourists from across Indonesia and beyond. Locals benefited from the influx of visitors, opening small stalls and guiding tours through the now-famous rainbow streets. What was once a struggling kampung became a vibrant example of urban renewal through art, demonstrating how colour, collaboration, and community spirit could transform lives – and change the reputation of an entire neighbourhood.
We could have spent all day here, watching chickens peck along the riverbank, cats stretch lazily on the paths and residents chat to each other from window to window. Children flew their kites from the rooftops and the fast-flowing Brantas River rushed through the centre.
We really enjoyed our time, cocooned in this bright world for a little while. There are no cars so it’s quite a peaceful retreat from the rest of the city.
Mie Panjang Umur, Malang
In the evening we headed to Mie Panjang Umur, an absolutely wonderful vegan restaurant. We weren’t sure what to expect but we feasted on satay skewers, big pieces of tofu in flavourful sauces and bowlfuls of rice. It was so good and the people running it the sweetest.
Find our recipe for Indonesian vegan satay skewers inspired by our time here.
Day 8 – Indonesia family holiday – Malang – history
Today we explored the historic area which is aiming to preserve the buildings and lifestyle of old Malang. To be honest, it looked much like lots of other areas of the city and the backstreets we wandered down. But in time this could change and those buildings be replaced so it’s good to keep them preserved. You pay a small fee to wander through and there are a couple of shops and a very sweet cafe where we paused with fruity, sparkling drinks which were perfect in the hot sun.
Shopping in Malang – Indonesia family holiday
We also shopped a little. In the main mall where the children wanted to explore the shops, through the backstreets and the cafe culture here. We had lunch at The Grove, an amazing hidden coffee shop with pandan oat milk lattes and rich buns which set us up for more wandering. The leafy, decadent environment felt wonderful to sit in a while.
Finally we explored the strange abandoned department store near the centre. Creeping though its decaying hallways and peering up abandoned escalators. Opposite we browsed the little silver shops for jewellery to take home and remember this fun colourful city from.
We spent our last evening meal back at Mie Panjang Umur, the food was so good there. Here, we enjoyed the satay, chewy tofu in rich sauce and tasty noodles with fragrant dressings.
We enjoyed Malang, especially its cafe culture and big leafy streets. It was nice to pause here for a few days and catch our breath.
Ijen Express – Malang to Banyunwangi train
Our ninth day involved a long day of travelling. All onboard the meandering, slow, but passing beautiful scenery, Ijen Express.
We set off early for the 7.50am start. Picking up coffees and pastries at a Roti’O bakery (one of our favourites) from the overstretched two servers. Watching the clock tick towards the train’s departure time as we then rushed with bags of pastries and overfilled coffees towards the platform.
The train journey on the Ijen Express was similar to the first one we took in Indonesia, from Jakarta to Yogyakarta. On board there was wifi and big picture glass windows and comfy seats. We all really enjoyed this journey. At one point we even experienced the train turning directions and the carriage assistant coming through to spin all the seats around.
There was a lovely moving picture of sceneries on the Ijen Express. So many glimpses into people’s worlds, yet again. So many homes backing onto the tracks to peer into and catch small fragments of the occupant’s day-to-day lives. The scenery was slightly more tropical, a little more jungly than the first two train journeys. But it also felt slow. Stopping at countless stations along the way. Snaking north and then east and then south.
That said, we’ve really enjoyed train travel in Indonesia. It’s been part of the adventure and a really wonderful insight into the communities we’ve passed along the way.
Arrival into Banyuwangi – Indonesia family holiday
We were so pleased when we finally arrived in Banyuwangi, however, and caught a Grab to our next hotel. This time it was the quirky Layana Farm Stay. A beautiful hotel, Instagram-ready, but set in the middle of the countryside. We all had to adjust slightly to the bundles of lizards climbing around the outside walls, and the one or two that had sneaked inside. And the insects moving around. But actually, once the air conditioning kicked in, it felt remarkably less insecty.
Layana really is a beautiful hotel. With a pool in the middle and some of the bathrooms outside for a shower-amongst-nature experience.
None of us could face trekking out again so we ordered food in the hotel’s restaurant, made vegetarian especially for us, and it was really good.
The Layana Farm Stay is a very different kind of hotel. It’s an experience. Part of the adventure. It’s got its elements of luxury whilst also feeling like it’s getting you close to the landscape. To the fabric of Indonesia. We loved our time here.
Banyuwangi – day 10 a family holiday to Indonesia
After a fresh breakfast of farm produce – pandan coconuts and avocado on sourdough, we headed into Banyuwangi.
I’m not sure what I was expecting but what we got was definitely not it. Banyuwangi feels sleepy, tired and slightly falling apart. We walked around the local little market and were greeted by the usual wonderful smiles we’ve seen all across this trip. But the broken pavements and boarded-up shops and restaurants felt like this was a town falling into neglect a little. I think most people come here to hike the Ijen mountain, or to visit the coastline. We were taking it a little easier on this leg of the trip and decided to stay put. The indigenous people of Banyuwangi sounded intriguing and I wish we had sought them out more carefully, or found ways to explore some of the crafts they are known for creating. I thought it would be clear and straightforward in the town, but it wasn’t.
After a wander, including a number of minor injuries from tripping over paving slabs and nearly losing an eye to a piece of jutting out masonry we decided to head back to our hotel and spend the afternoon enjoying the serene surroundings there.
In fact, an afternoon at Layana Farm Stay, was exactly what we all needed after days of sightseeing and enjoying new places. The call to Prayer ringing out across the pool and the jackfruit trees in the grounds swaying in the breeze, it felt beautifully atmospheric. You can order drinks to the numerous loungers surrounding the pool, or snacks and meals. It was the perfect place to relax and unwind. Slightly jaded from the earlier experience of the town, we even opted to eat at the hotel’s restaurant again.
This wasn’t the day I’d envisioned and if I had the time again I’d either seek out one of the nearby beaches or book an excursion to Ijen Mountain. However, the time spent recuperating was welcome and with a trek across the sea and land to reach Ubud, Bali the following day it was one we all enjoyed.
Banyuwangi to Bali – Indonesia family holiday
There are a few ways to get from Banyuwangi to Bali.
- Flight. But these are sporadic and costly.
- Private car / transport
- Shared bus
We opted for a private car and Layana Farm Resort helped us organise this to fit in all five of us and our luggage. It wasn’t cheap and it was a bit of a squeeze but we asked for a couple of supermarket stops along the way to buy cold drinks and snacks and to have a break, and we just went for it.
Catching the ferry to Bali from Banyuwangi
The first stop was down to Ketapang Ferry Port which was as sleepy as the rest of Banyuwangi that we had seen. We were quickly on board, the ferry was small but didn’t look unsafe. We settled down, laughing to ourselves at the very small snack bar with the sign across the front, “passengers can do karaoke”. Then the screen flickered on with very loud sing-a-long songs. And then one of the fellow passengers decided to sing, incredibly badly, to the rest of the packed ferry. What started as something slightly painful to listen to became excruciatingly funny. I struggled to contain my laughter, not helped by an onboard biker group all finding my hysterics funny in return. The whole of the deck were laughing. It was the funniest ferry crossing I’ve ever had.
Driving across Bali for our Indonesia family holiday
At around forty minutes long it was actually a quick and calm crossing and soon we were off and driving through Bali. And what a change. There were troops of monkeys sat by the side of the road, all munching food or dashing recklessly in front of cars, their babies chasing after them. Gone were the countless cats of Java, replaced by small packs of dogs. There were few mosques, instead incredible Hindu statues and amazing Penjor – tall, curved bamboo poles that are a significant religious symbol in Balinese Hinduism, which celebrate the victory of dharma (good) over adharma (evil). Everywhere was intriguing and so different to the mainland that was just a short hop away.
It took hours to wind our way through to Ubud. Stopping halfway through at a mini mart for crisps and drinks. Luckily the landscape really caught our attention and was beautiful to look at.
Arriving into Ubud – our Indonesia family holiday
The sky filled with dozens of kites, rising above the lush, green rice fields as we snaked our way in to Ubud. We braced for the tourism we were expecting and it never came. The backroads took us through to Lily Lane Villas and our bed for the night. We had two of their amazing, characterful rooms. Houses that had been rescued from across Indonesia – the children’s room was my favourite, a little wooden dwelling that was being demolished in Java and instead rescued here.
The charismatic Australian owner, showed us around, helped us order food to the room and made us feel like we were home. I wished we had longer than the one night here as this is somewhere to really come and savour. If I could change the time I would have spent two nights here and just one in Banyuwangi.
Day 11 – Ubud, Bali – monkeys
Today we headed to the amazing Spiritual Monkey Forest. A sacred site since the 14th century it is now home to over 1200 long-tailed macaques. We were slightly apprehensive before visiting as the monkeys roam freely and there were reports of bites and rabies shots. It soon became clear however, that it is very easy to have a happy visit by just paying attention to a few basic rules.
The monkeys are free to roam and this is their territory. Try to give the space and just observe quietly. We loved the experience. Being in the beautiful surroundings with these gorgeous creatures. They were mesmerising and the forest felt almost mythical.
We did witness bad behaviour but only on the part of the tourists. Most of these were parents who encouraged their children to go up close to the monkeys, letting them clamber all over them and scratch them. It seemed very reckless at times.
We loved our time here though, and seeing the monkeys up close, living happily in this huge space was wonderful.
Read our complete guide to Ubud Monkey Forest Bali here (with links to get your tickets)
Ubud on a Indonesia family holiday
We had a little wander around Ubud which is a nice town. It’s by far the most touristy we visited and there were crowds of people shopping and eating. But the vibe was still really lovely and we would have been happy to linger but Sanur called us.
So we drove on across the island to this little corner of Denpasar and the amazing Kayumanis Villas.
Sanur, Bali – chilled days by the pool – our Indonesia family holiday
This part of the trip was always going to be the relaxed bit. We love our adventurous travels but have always paired that with a bit of luxurious beach / pool time at the end.
Kayumanis Private Villas and Spa is an amazing place to enjoy. The small resort is made up entirely of private villas and pools and we loved the space we had with a three bedroom little complex with our own pool, dining area, kitchen and outdoor lounge. All of the meals can be brought over to the villa so we started the morning with a delicious breakfast at our place, packed with tropical fruits, pastries and hot food all cooked to order. It was so good.
Sanur – our Indonesia family holiday
We then took the hotel’s complimentary shuttle into Sanur to browse the shops which are about a 5-10 minute drive away. Sanur is much more relaxed than Ubud and was a great place to pick up souvenirs including some beautiful hand made basket bowls for the wall at home and some gifts for friends and family.
We were then back at Kayumanis for the complimentary afternoon tea and to spend the afternoon relaxing by and in the pool.
In the evening we took a walk along the beach. This is a really nice place to enjoy time outside, a long stretch of sand. There are lots of places to hire bikes too. We ended up at ICONS mall which was surprisingly good. They had a Bali dancing show which was amazing, such fantastic performers. There were lots of places to pick up food – both western and Asian. It was certainly different to the rest of Indonesia we’ve experienced but the children really enjoyed it. Another little interesting part of our Indonesia family holiday.
Read our full review of Kayumanis Sanur Bali here.
Indonesia family holiday – Sanur, Bali – beachtime – Day 13
Today was largely another day relaxing at Kayumanis Private Villas and Spa. It’s such a serene place to wake up to and order breakfast by the pool. There are many great places to stay in Bali but this has to be up there at the top. So much tranquility and opportunity to just get away from the crowds.
The beach here at Sanur is perfect for families. Shallow water, lovely sand and lots of beach cafes and restaurants. The Kayumanis has its own stretch of sand so we took the complimentary shuttle down and took some of their beach loungers and umbrellas, with the staff handing us towels. We spent a few lovely hours here, really relaxing and enjoying the downtime. In general, we rarely stop when we travel, so this was very nice to slow down for a bit.
We were back then at our villa for time relaxing there. There was a cooking demonstration the hotel put on which we enjoyed and mini complimentary massages which were also a real treat. And of course the usual afternoon tea which was as delicious as ever. This is a hotel to really savour and we loved every minute of our stay. It was the perfect end to our time in Indonesia.
Find our best things to do in Bali with kids
Day 14 – Denpasar, Bali
Today was a lovely last day in Bali. We started at the Kayumanis Sanur Resort where we had breakfast delivered to our outdoor dining room as usual. We really lingered over this last lovely meal outside, packed full of both western and Indonesian tastes.
Then we headed into the little town of Sanur for one last time. I’d spotted some baskets I’d seen on the drive across Bali when we first arrived. They were in a Buddhist stall so I was really happy to pick them up. Lovely colourful square baskets to fill our home with a little bit of Bali.
Then we cooled off with some ice cream – dragon fruit and Beng Beng (an Indonesian chocolate bar), that was delicious. And we took one final walk along the beach here, soaking it all up, not wanting to leave.
Read our feature on the best souvenirs to buy from Bali here.
Denpasar – Indonesia family holiday
Our final trip was across this little corner of Bali to Denpasar, where we would be flying home in the morning. We’d booked a (what turned out to be) slghtly shabby Airbnb for the final night. So as soona s we checked in we immediately headed out to explore Kuta Beach nearby.
This wole area was much more overtly touristy than Sanur. It was how I imagined Bali to be. Lots of tourists drinking in the sunshine, crowded stalls selling trinkets, beaches packed with sunbathers. It felt much more rowdy and lively but we did enjoy having a browse through the stalls, watching the kites flying high above the beach and enjoying a family meal at the nearby Hard Rock Cafe Bali.
We watched the sun set across the Indian Ocean here, which was so beautiful. The sky filled with pangs of pinks and oranges.
Bali is a really diverse island and there are definitely bits we liked more than others. But we loved exploring it and finding out about some of the differences that exist across it. It was the perfect ending for this part of our Indonesia family holiday.
Singapore – exploring the food scene
It was an early morning flight from Bali to Singapore. There were flights all through the day but we opted for the first one to get to Singapore and really relax. It was a wrench to get up at 4.30 though and stagger downstairs and into a taxi. Thankfully it was just a short drive to Ngurah Rai International Airport (Denpasar Airport).
The airport is really modern and full of restaurants and shops. We really enjoyed exploring it and picking up pastries and hot coffee.
As we left we were so pleased we weren’t flying straght home from Bali. We planned to stop for a couple of days in Singapore which really created a buffer for that transition out of our travels.
When we landed in Singapore we caught the train into the city which is such an easy way to get into the city. Very cheap, fast, clean and efficient.
In Singapore we stayed at the amazing Grand Hyatt on Orchard Road which was a great place to explore the area. There were lots of fantastic, inexpensive vegetarian hawker opportunities around. We had a lovely feast of mock meats and noodles.
We did take a bit of a wander around Orchard Road, stopping in some of the shops. But today was really about taking it easy. Spending time at the hotel’s pool, having long hot showers and just relaxing after all the travel.
Singapore – Magical gardens – Day 16
We have visited Singapore Zoo and been inside Gardens by the Bay in the past so, as we were ensuring the end of this trip was very relaxed, we decided to just tick off a couple of places in Singapore we wanted to see. A wander through Chinatown to pick up some little souvenirs and a wander around Gardens by the Bay to marvel at the amazing structures. It has an otherworldly quality to it and we loved wandering around and taking in the sights.
In the evening we had a meal at Peter’s Place, a Singapore institution since 1973. and part of the Grand Hyatt Hotel. We had some great Italian food and cocktails (mocktails for the children) and chatted all about our amazing trip and all our favourite parts.
After dinner we dashed off on the MRT back to Gardens by the Bay to see the fantastic light show. This really exceeded my expectations. Music playing loudly as the lights danced around the Supertree structures. It was so wonderful to see it all lit up at night. We all really loved this free performance.
Day 17 – Singapore – time by the pool and heading home
Our final day was spent by the pools at the Grand Hyatt. They are so beautiful and free flowing. With wonderful cabanas to relax in and sun loungers dotted all around we loved the time here. Out in the warm air and cooling off in the refreshing waters.
Read our full of review of the Grand Hyatt Singapore here.
None of us wanted to leave but at least Changi Airport, with all of its shopping and dining options, provided entertainment before the flight.
Our Indonesian family holiday really was one of, if not the, best we’ve had. There was a little bit of everything. Culture, interesting foods, ancient sites, beautiful hotels, train travel, interactions with locals, shopping, exploring, relaxing. I couldn’t ask for any more of it. It was wonderful and one we will never forget.
Our suggested Indonesia family holiday itinerary
This itinerary is largely based on ours but with a few tweaks to things we would do differently if we could plan it now.
Day 1 – Jakarta
Arrive, settle into Mangga Dua, enjoy city views and a relaxed first night.
Day 2 – Jakarta old town
Explore Kota Tua, Fatahillah Square, Wayang Puppet Museum and Chinatown. Dinner at House of Tugu.
Day 3 – Jakarta to Yogyakarta
Train to Yogyakarta, check in at Tirtodipuran Hotel, dinner nearby.
Day 4 – Yogyakarta
Dander Kotagede’s lanes, visit Makam Panembahan Senopati, browse craft shops and enjoy the happy weekend buzz in Suryatmajan.
Day 5 – Borobudur
Slow breakfast then a half-day at the temple with a guide.
Day 6 – Yogyakarta to Malang
Train to Malang, relaxed evening and simple dinner.
Day 7 – Malang
Handicrafts, Jodipan Rainbow Village and dinner at Mie Panjang Umur.
Day 8 – Malang
Historic district wander, cafés, browsing shops and another good meal.
Day 9 – Malang to Banyuwangi (1 night)
Ijen Express train, settle into Layana Farm stay, dinner at the hotel.
Day 10 – Banyuwangi to Ubud (night 1 of 3)
Quick look around town, pool time, then private transfer and ferry to Bali. Arrive in Ubud and stay at Lilly Lane Villas.
Day 11 – Ubud (night 2 of 3)
Visit the Sacred Monkey Forest and explore the town.
Day 12 – Ubud (night 3 of 3)
A slower day: cafés, markets, wandering backstreets and soaking up the atmosphere.
Day 13 – Ubud to Sanur
Arrive at Kayumanis Villas, pool time and beach walk in the evening.
Day 14 – Sanur
villa breakfast, beach morning, relaxed afternoon tea and downtime.
Day 15 – Sanur to Denpasar
Final wander in Sanur, transfer to Denpasar and explore Kuta Beach.
Day 16 – fly home
